The Meadow-rues have the cut foliage and blossoms with many stamens typical of the members of the Buttercup family. They are not at all difficult to growóany rich light, loamy soil which is well drained will please them. They show their gratitude by grothing and blooming without further care except weeding. I have mine in full sun but they can tolerate partial shade. So far insects and diseases have created no trouble.
The yellow Meadow-rue, Thalictrum glacum, has grayish-blue foliage. It grows to a height of 4 feet and opens its yellow blossoms in late June or early July. It is an ideal plant to set near yellow-flowering Hemerocallis.
Thalictrum rochebrunianum is name enough for something very large and gives one no idea of the airy-fairy dantiness of this rich lavender Meadow-rue. Blossoms appear in great abundance in August. After the first crop comes a second crop. The plants grow to about the same height as the yellow one. It is also an ideal companion plant for Hemerocallis. The blosoms are lovely in vases but I found I had to put the stems in hot water for a few moments to keep them from wilting.
Meadow-rues may be propagated by seeds or by division. I have planted seeds in a seed frame both in late fall and early spring and have found germination about the same. Neither time was it too good. One gardener has reported that she had excellent results several times with Thalictrum rochebrunianum when planting the seed in a flat or flower pot and setting them out to freeze for several months. Then she brought them inside to a sunny window and they germinated well.
Monday, October 18, 2010
Monday, October 11, 2010
The Garden Border
Every year I try to develop a new arrangement for my perennial garden which is about 40 feet long. But the summer of '02 was by far the most satisfactory I have ever accomplished, all due to an arrangement of the edging that complemented every plant that blossomed in the garden. It also made it easy for my new electric lawn mower to get up close for a nice trim.
In the first place I lean to the pastel Shades in peonies, iris, phlox and other well known flowers. Pink is really the acme of delight to my eye, so when I thought about a new edging I decided on white alyssum, which I started early. As :non as the markets displayed flats of annuals I selected two dozen petunias, Rosy Morn (or Pride of Heaven would do just as well) and set them in the row of alyssum. They were spaced about 20 inches apart and I pulled out the alyssum which had developed a good start by the time the petunias were ready.
It was a constant delight until frost nipped the row, but it was so satisfactory I intend to repeat the effect this year.
Ageratum would make a delightful addition- at the rear, but my space is too limited to add anything more. Try this just once and be convinced!
In the first place I lean to the pastel Shades in peonies, iris, phlox and other well known flowers. Pink is really the acme of delight to my eye, so when I thought about a new edging I decided on white alyssum, which I started early. As :non as the markets displayed flats of annuals I selected two dozen petunias, Rosy Morn (or Pride of Heaven would do just as well) and set them in the row of alyssum. They were spaced about 20 inches apart and I pulled out the alyssum which had developed a good start by the time the petunias were ready.
It was a constant delight until frost nipped the row, but it was so satisfactory I intend to repeat the effect this year.
Ageratum would make a delightful addition- at the rear, but my space is too limited to add anything more. Try this just once and be convinced!
Friday, October 8, 2010
Things To Do In A Michigan February
Sometimes in February we have an unusually warm day in Michigan, the ground thaws out and it is possible to dig out a clump of chrysanthemums. If potted up and put in a sunny window, young sprouts will grow, and when these are 2-1/2 inches tall, cut just below a leaf joint and dip the end in Rootone and plant in sandy ground. These will be well rooted plants' by April and are just the right size for exchanging with friends, or just planting where needed.
Cuttings which are rooted in March will make a nicer size bush than cuttings made in April or May, but all cuttings will bloom at the same time, naturally those made later will only have a flower or two.
Dahlia tubers which have sprouted in storage but due to cold weather cannot be planted outdoors, can be increased this way also. When the sprouts are three inches long, dip the end in Rootone also and plant in sandy soil, water when needed. Don't separate the old sprout from the tuber, as it won't grow unless a part of last-year's stalk is attached.
A good way to divide a clump of tubers is to "plant the clump" in dampened peatmoss and after the new shoots appear, use a sharp short knife to cut each tuber so as to include the neck or at least a bud. When entire clumps are planted outdoors, they develop thickets of weak stalks which produce poor flowers and an ordinary number of tubers; but when divided correctly and planted separately they develop stout stalks and good blossoms and the increase in tubers is very gratifying, too.
Cuttings which are rooted in March will make a nicer size bush than cuttings made in April or May, but all cuttings will bloom at the same time, naturally those made later will only have a flower or two.
Dahlia tubers which have sprouted in storage but due to cold weather cannot be planted outdoors, can be increased this way also. When the sprouts are three inches long, dip the end in Rootone also and plant in sandy soil, water when needed. Don't separate the old sprout from the tuber, as it won't grow unless a part of last-year's stalk is attached.
A good way to divide a clump of tubers is to "plant the clump" in dampened peatmoss and after the new shoots appear, use a sharp short knife to cut each tuber so as to include the neck or at least a bud. When entire clumps are planted outdoors, they develop thickets of weak stalks which produce poor flowers and an ordinary number of tubers; but when divided correctly and planted separately they develop stout stalks and good blossoms and the increase in tubers is very gratifying, too.
Tuesday, September 28, 2010
Cotoneasters For The Border
Of all the many shrubs which are suitable for planting in your garden, the Cotoneaster is one of the nicest you can choose. Several choice varieties are: C. Hupehensis, C. Multiflora, C. Racemifloravar. Songarica, and C. Salicifoliavar. Floccosa.
These varieties are very easy to grow, and are sufficiently hardy to grow in almost any climate. They are colorful, and they are among the most useful of shrubs for ornamental planting. They have smooth bright green leaves, almost waxy in apperance. All kinds thrive best if planted in an open sunny place, with well-drained soiL
One of the nicest varieties, and one with which I have had unusual success in my garden, is Catoneaster Multiflora. It has showy clusters of flowers in the spring, and bright red berries during the summer Birds love to eat these berries, and if you would like to attract more birds to your garden, the Multiflora is especially desirable.
It is generally believed that the Multiflora is not very free fruiting, but my plants, though only three years old, were so heavily loaded with berries last summer that the branches hung nearly to the ground.
The seeds of the Cotoneaster shrubs should be frost treated before planting in order for them to germinate. If they do not germinate the first summer, do not become discouraged, because if they are left undisturbed in their bed, they will come up the following year, and will reward your patience with gorgeous berries. And without a doubt, hungry birds of every description will dwell in your garden for quite some time. In some varieties of Cotoneaster, the foli age will have beautiful colors in the fall.
These varieties are very easy to grow, and are sufficiently hardy to grow in almost any climate. They are colorful, and they are among the most useful of shrubs for ornamental planting. They have smooth bright green leaves, almost waxy in apperance. All kinds thrive best if planted in an open sunny place, with well-drained soiL
One of the nicest varieties, and one with which I have had unusual success in my garden, is Catoneaster Multiflora. It has showy clusters of flowers in the spring, and bright red berries during the summer Birds love to eat these berries, and if you would like to attract more birds to your garden, the Multiflora is especially desirable.
It is generally believed that the Multiflora is not very free fruiting, but my plants, though only three years old, were so heavily loaded with berries last summer that the branches hung nearly to the ground.
The seeds of the Cotoneaster shrubs should be frost treated before planting in order for them to germinate. If they do not germinate the first summer, do not become discouraged, because if they are left undisturbed in their bed, they will come up the following year, and will reward your patience with gorgeous berries. And without a doubt, hungry birds of every description will dwell in your garden for quite some time. In some varieties of Cotoneaster, the foli age will have beautiful colors in the fall.
Wednesday, July 14, 2010
Methods Of Growing Perennials
Biennials and perennials. In late campanulas, sweet-william, delphinium, pansies, violas and any other fall sown perennials should be removed from their winter quarters to their flowering place in the garden. After transplanting, water them thoroughly. Have the soil well prepared by .deep digging and be sure to add manure or humus.
Sunday, July 11, 2010
First Acquaintance With A Cactus Plant
My first acquaintance with a cactus at close range was several years ago when my wife was confined to a hospital bed. Somebody sent her a cactus and the darn thing bloomed! Ever since we have both been bugs on the subject, for once stuck by a cactus you stay stuck!
Monday, July 5, 2010
In What Seasons Are Beavertail Cactus Grown?
The beavertail cactus is a low growing "shrub" with pear-shaped pads for leaves. The pads are somewhat wrinkled transversely but have no true spines. The little hairy tufts, which are (lotted all over the pads, are called glochids. Botanically Opuntia basilaris, it has fluffy pink flowers and is native to Arizona, California and Utah.
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