The Meadow-rues have the cut foliage and blossoms with many stamens typical of the members of the Buttercup family. They are not at all difficult to growóany rich light, loamy soil which is well drained will please them. They show their gratitude by grothing and blooming without further care except weeding. I have mine in full sun but they can tolerate partial shade. So far insects and diseases have created no trouble.
The yellow Meadow-rue, Thalictrum glacum, has grayish-blue foliage. It grows to a height of 4 feet and opens its yellow blossoms in late June or early July. It is an ideal plant to set near yellow-flowering Hemerocallis.
Thalictrum rochebrunianum is name enough for something very large and gives one no idea of the airy-fairy dantiness of this rich lavender Meadow-rue. Blossoms appear in great abundance in August. After the first crop comes a second crop. The plants grow to about the same height as the yellow one. It is also an ideal companion plant for Hemerocallis. The blosoms are lovely in vases but I found I had to put the stems in hot water for a few moments to keep them from wilting.
Meadow-rues may be propagated by seeds or by division. I have planted seeds in a seed frame both in late fall and early spring and have found germination about the same. Neither time was it too good. One gardener has reported that she had excellent results several times with Thalictrum rochebrunianum when planting the seed in a flat or flower pot and setting them out to freeze for several months. Then she brought them inside to a sunny window and they germinated well.
Monday, October 18, 2010
Monday, October 11, 2010
The Garden Border
Every year I try to develop a new arrangement for my perennial garden which is about 40 feet long. But the summer of '02 was by far the most satisfactory I have ever accomplished, all due to an arrangement of the edging that complemented every plant that blossomed in the garden. It also made it easy for my new electric lawn mower to get up close for a nice trim.
In the first place I lean to the pastel Shades in peonies, iris, phlox and other well known flowers. Pink is really the acme of delight to my eye, so when I thought about a new edging I decided on white alyssum, which I started early. As :non as the markets displayed flats of annuals I selected two dozen petunias, Rosy Morn (or Pride of Heaven would do just as well) and set them in the row of alyssum. They were spaced about 20 inches apart and I pulled out the alyssum which had developed a good start by the time the petunias were ready.
It was a constant delight until frost nipped the row, but it was so satisfactory I intend to repeat the effect this year.
Ageratum would make a delightful addition- at the rear, but my space is too limited to add anything more. Try this just once and be convinced!
In the first place I lean to the pastel Shades in peonies, iris, phlox and other well known flowers. Pink is really the acme of delight to my eye, so when I thought about a new edging I decided on white alyssum, which I started early. As :non as the markets displayed flats of annuals I selected two dozen petunias, Rosy Morn (or Pride of Heaven would do just as well) and set them in the row of alyssum. They were spaced about 20 inches apart and I pulled out the alyssum which had developed a good start by the time the petunias were ready.
It was a constant delight until frost nipped the row, but it was so satisfactory I intend to repeat the effect this year.
Ageratum would make a delightful addition- at the rear, but my space is too limited to add anything more. Try this just once and be convinced!
Friday, October 8, 2010
Things To Do In A Michigan February
Sometimes in February we have an unusually warm day in Michigan, the ground thaws out and it is possible to dig out a clump of chrysanthemums. If potted up and put in a sunny window, young sprouts will grow, and when these are 2-1/2 inches tall, cut just below a leaf joint and dip the end in Rootone and plant in sandy ground. These will be well rooted plants' by April and are just the right size for exchanging with friends, or just planting where needed.
Cuttings which are rooted in March will make a nicer size bush than cuttings made in April or May, but all cuttings will bloom at the same time, naturally those made later will only have a flower or two.
Dahlia tubers which have sprouted in storage but due to cold weather cannot be planted outdoors, can be increased this way also. When the sprouts are three inches long, dip the end in Rootone also and plant in sandy soil, water when needed. Don't separate the old sprout from the tuber, as it won't grow unless a part of last-year's stalk is attached.
A good way to divide a clump of tubers is to "plant the clump" in dampened peatmoss and after the new shoots appear, use a sharp short knife to cut each tuber so as to include the neck or at least a bud. When entire clumps are planted outdoors, they develop thickets of weak stalks which produce poor flowers and an ordinary number of tubers; but when divided correctly and planted separately they develop stout stalks and good blossoms and the increase in tubers is very gratifying, too.
Cuttings which are rooted in March will make a nicer size bush than cuttings made in April or May, but all cuttings will bloom at the same time, naturally those made later will only have a flower or two.
Dahlia tubers which have sprouted in storage but due to cold weather cannot be planted outdoors, can be increased this way also. When the sprouts are three inches long, dip the end in Rootone also and plant in sandy soil, water when needed. Don't separate the old sprout from the tuber, as it won't grow unless a part of last-year's stalk is attached.
A good way to divide a clump of tubers is to "plant the clump" in dampened peatmoss and after the new shoots appear, use a sharp short knife to cut each tuber so as to include the neck or at least a bud. When entire clumps are planted outdoors, they develop thickets of weak stalks which produce poor flowers and an ordinary number of tubers; but when divided correctly and planted separately they develop stout stalks and good blossoms and the increase in tubers is very gratifying, too.
Tuesday, September 28, 2010
Cotoneasters For The Border
Of all the many shrubs which are suitable for planting in your garden, the Cotoneaster is one of the nicest you can choose. Several choice varieties are: C. Hupehensis, C. Multiflora, C. Racemifloravar. Songarica, and C. Salicifoliavar. Floccosa.
These varieties are very easy to grow, and are sufficiently hardy to grow in almost any climate. They are colorful, and they are among the most useful of shrubs for ornamental planting. They have smooth bright green leaves, almost waxy in apperance. All kinds thrive best if planted in an open sunny place, with well-drained soiL
One of the nicest varieties, and one with which I have had unusual success in my garden, is Catoneaster Multiflora. It has showy clusters of flowers in the spring, and bright red berries during the summer Birds love to eat these berries, and if you would like to attract more birds to your garden, the Multiflora is especially desirable.
It is generally believed that the Multiflora is not very free fruiting, but my plants, though only three years old, were so heavily loaded with berries last summer that the branches hung nearly to the ground.
The seeds of the Cotoneaster shrubs should be frost treated before planting in order for them to germinate. If they do not germinate the first summer, do not become discouraged, because if they are left undisturbed in their bed, they will come up the following year, and will reward your patience with gorgeous berries. And without a doubt, hungry birds of every description will dwell in your garden for quite some time. In some varieties of Cotoneaster, the foli age will have beautiful colors in the fall.
These varieties are very easy to grow, and are sufficiently hardy to grow in almost any climate. They are colorful, and they are among the most useful of shrubs for ornamental planting. They have smooth bright green leaves, almost waxy in apperance. All kinds thrive best if planted in an open sunny place, with well-drained soiL
One of the nicest varieties, and one with which I have had unusual success in my garden, is Catoneaster Multiflora. It has showy clusters of flowers in the spring, and bright red berries during the summer Birds love to eat these berries, and if you would like to attract more birds to your garden, the Multiflora is especially desirable.
It is generally believed that the Multiflora is not very free fruiting, but my plants, though only three years old, were so heavily loaded with berries last summer that the branches hung nearly to the ground.
The seeds of the Cotoneaster shrubs should be frost treated before planting in order for them to germinate. If they do not germinate the first summer, do not become discouraged, because if they are left undisturbed in their bed, they will come up the following year, and will reward your patience with gorgeous berries. And without a doubt, hungry birds of every description will dwell in your garden for quite some time. In some varieties of Cotoneaster, the foli age will have beautiful colors in the fall.
Wednesday, July 14, 2010
Methods Of Growing Perennials
Biennials and perennials. In late campanulas, sweet-william, delphinium, pansies, violas and any other fall sown perennials should be removed from their winter quarters to their flowering place in the garden. After transplanting, water them thoroughly. Have the soil well prepared by .deep digging and be sure to add manure or humus.
Sunday, July 11, 2010
First Acquaintance With A Cactus Plant
Monday, July 5, 2010
In What Seasons Are Beavertail Cactus Grown?
The beavertail cactus is a low growing "shrub" with pear-shaped pads for leaves. The pads are somewhat wrinkled transversely but have no true spines. The little hairy tufts, which are (lotted all over the pads, are called glochids. Botanically Opuntia basilaris, it has fluffy pink flowers and is native to Arizona, California and Utah.
Friday, July 2, 2010
Transplanting Seedlings - Should We?
We continue to transplant seedlings as they require, and if they become too crowded in flats transplant them to pots.
Continue sowing of annuals in the greenhouse and frame, and put in the first sowings of marigolds, zinnias and cosmos about the middle of April. They grow quickly so do not be tempted to put them in before then.
Continue sowing of annuals in the greenhouse and frame, and put in the first sowings of marigolds, zinnias and cosmos about the middle of April. They grow quickly so do not be tempted to put them in before then.
Tuesday, June 29, 2010
Characteristics Of A Plumbago Capensis Plant
Plumbago capensis use to be a rare plant not often, but now it is a common plant found in the landscape, but surely one of the loveliest blue flowers that grow. It can be kept indoors, pot grown, during winter, or covered up in the soil outside. Anywhere it is grown the azure flowers in clusters all over the stems are beautifully refined and dainty. The white variety is also good.
Wednesday, June 23, 2010
Cactus Bands Tell Their Age
The sunset cactus, alias pincushion cactus, is one of more than 200 very small cacti belonging to the genus mamunillaria which are often collectively referred to as fishhook cacti. This one is Mammillaria microcarpa and is about 3 inches high; its flowers are about an inch across and arc pale pink, occurring in the spring and then again in August and as this plant has 19 bands it is 19 years old. Botanically it is known as Echinocereus rigidissimus.
Sunday, June 20, 2010
How Far Back Should You Prune Clematis?
Prune clematis back to live wood on the main stem. On some varieties this may mean removing most of the plant.
In the greenhouse. It is necessary to pinch back such plants as snapdragon, petunia, heliotrope and lantana that are to be used for bedding purposes. Pinching will make them bushy and sturdy. Simply remove the top of the plant when it is soft and about 4 inches in height and it will be forced to break below the pinch.
Thursday, June 17, 2010
Pulling Weeds By Hand And The Home Gardener?
The necessity for pulling a few weeds by hand may serve as a pleasant pastime for the home gardener as he works on his hand and knees; in fact, a little of this may even sharpen his ardor for his hobby. Should a large area require weeding, however, and at a time when the July sun beats down on his head and back, as likely as not his interest will soon be diverted to something else. That's the kind of job weeding is!
Tuesday, June 8, 2010
Which Hydrangeas Should Be Pruned In The Spring?
Some hydrangeas, such as the peegee, Hydrangea paniculala grandifiora, and the hills-of-snow, H. arborescens grandiflora, bloom on new wood and may be pruned in the Spring. Others, like H. maerophylla, the French or greenhouse hydrangea, bloom near the tips of wood produced the previous year and should be pruned lightly after blooming.
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